When we look back at 2020, the restaurants that launched this year may have wildly divergent origin stories. For Uncle Steve’s House of BBQ in Roslyn, that tale might begin with “It was a dark and stormy night …”
That would be the night owner Matt Prince raced around the darkened roads of Roslyn in a Jeep Wrangler delivering brisket during Uncle Steve’s first night in business as a so-called ghost kitchen.
Prince’s other business at 1 Railroad Avenue, Vienna of Roslyn, had been thriving when lockdown arrived in mid-March. In bat of an eye, events hit a hard stop. After reassessing his choices — and as takeout and delivery gained steam as a survival tactic for other restaurants — Prince realized that what might be missing in his immediate surrounds was a delivery-focused barbecue spot. Around that time, a culinary consultant Prince had worked with, chef Matthew Birnbaum, reached